Articles by: Charles Scicolone

  • Sicilian Food at its Best


     I just returned from a cruise around Sicily – my fourth trip in the last two years.  (See The Island in the Sun Parts I and Il, April 18 and May 3.) All my grandparents were born there and I grew up in the same house with my mother’s mother. She was from Palermo and came to America as a teenager.  She was a very good cook and made many Sicilian specialties for me. 

      
    I have a fondness for things Sicilian, especially the food.  It is difficult to get genuine Italian food in this country, but I thought that Sicilian food like my grandmother’s was impossible to find, until I met Salvatore!
     
    When I was working at I Trulli, Salvatore Fraterrigo was hired as the chef. We became friends, in part because he was from Sicily. Salvatore had owned Il Radicchio, a restaurant in Trapani where he was born. The restaurant got very good reviews in the Italian press. Salvatore and I always talked about Sicilian food and one day I suggested that he come to my apartment and cook a true Sicilian meal for us. Michele does not like to share her kitchen with anyone but after talking with Salvatore she agreed. The meal that he made for us could not have been better if we had been in Sicily.
     
    Salvatore now is the chef for the Sicilian restaurant Cacio e Vino in Manhattan where we often go for dinner. If you go there ask for Salvatore, he never disappoints. So I decided to ask him why his food is so good and how he keeps it so genuine, just like my grandmother’s.
     
    Salvatore’s earliest memories are of his mother Candida and his grandmother Vitina cooking. He watched them with great interest and asked them if he could help. Not only did his mother let him help, but she took the time to show him every single step of the dish that she was preparing! He feels that his love of food and cooking comes from those happy days in the kitchen with his mother and grandmother.
     
    He also has fond memories of large family gatherings and the food at Christmas (fried baccala, peperoni ripeni),  New Years Eve (lentils and sausages, cardi fritti, carciofi repieni, zucca in agrodolce, sfinci with sugar and cassatelle di ricotta fritte) and lunch on New Years Day (caponata, fritture in pastella, sarde a beccafico, baked ziti, falsomagro with Sicilian ragu, and cassata).
     
    Making Cous Cous, a Trapanese specialty, was a family event with the women doing the cooking and his father buying the fish early in the morning to make sure that he would get only the freshest. Occasionally, he would not get the varieties that his wife Candida wanted and he would never hear the end of it. Salvatore would watch the women cook and if he got up early would go with his father.  Like his mother, Salvatore made it quite clear that the true Cous Cous is only made with fish. Use anything else and it would not taste right. My grandmother from Palermo (which is not far from Trapani) never heard of Cous Cous.
     
    One of his mother’s favorite dishes was pasta with sardines (pasta con sarde). She would only make it using bucatini or malfadine pasta because it worked well with the other ingredients including wild fennel, pine nuts anchovies and raisins.
     
    His mother made a meat dish I had never heard of. She called it agglassato. braised eye of round beef ( girello) cooked with sliced onions in a covered pot over a slow fire. The sauce made a great pasta dish using bucatini.
     
    Salvatore (chiamato affettuosamente, “Toto”) soon began cooking for his friends and classmates at informal gatherings and parties and was in great demand. After graduation he wanted to learn more and went to work in a local seafood restaurant. He enjoyed the experience and was offered a job with Peppe Giuffre, a well known chef and owner of a catering company. When Pepe Giuffre opened a Sicilian restaurant in Paris, Salvatore went with him and through these experiences he perfected his technical skills.
     
    To gain more experience Salvatore worked in restaurants in New York, Washington D.C, Los Angles and London. These experiences brought him into contact with many different cooking styles and philosophies, from food piled higher and higher to dishes covered with foam, and everything in between.
    His cookbook “I Tesori della Cucina Siciliana” was very well received in Sicily and was  in all the stores, when I was there.
     
    Salvatore feels very strongly about “la Famiglia”.  Cooking and food in Sicily revolves around the family. It is a convivium, cooking and eating with the whole family sitting around the table in their own environment talking and laughing.
     
    Food, he feels, is like art and follows the fashions of the times. Some inventive chefs use different combinations of food to express what is in vogue. Salvatore feels that while they should express themselves, there is a line that they should not cross. Some of these chefs are like alchemists with their strange combinations of ingredients and techniques. They cross the line when it becomes more art then food.
     
    Salvatore believes that his mother’s cooking was the best. She used time tested methods, the best and freshest ingredients and traditional recipes. The love with which she cooked was reflected in the love for her family, a combination that is hard to beat.
     
    Salvatore feels that good coking comes from his family and the good ingredients in the earth. When Salvatore cooks for you it is like being part of his family.
  • Life & People

    Sicilian Food at its Best


     I just returned from a cruise around Sicily – my fourth trip in the last two years.  (See The Island in the Sun Parts I and Il, April 18 and May 3.) All my grandparents were born there and I grew up in the same house with my mother’s mother. She was from Palermo and came to America as a teenager.  She was a very good cook and made many Sicilian specialties for me. 

      
    I have a fondness for things Sicilian, especially the food.  It is difficult to get genuine Italian food in this country, but I thought that Sicilian food like my grandmother’s was impossible to find, until I met Salvatore!
     
    When I was working at I Trulli, Salvatore Fraterrigo was hired as the chef. We became friends, in part because he was from Sicily. Salvatore had owned Il Radicchio, a restaurant in Trapani where he was born. The restaurant got very good reviews in the Italian press. Salvatore and I always talked about Sicilian food and one day I suggested that he come to my apartment and cook a true Sicilian meal for us. Michele does not like to share her kitchen with anyone but after talking with Salvatore she agreed. The meal that he made for us could not have been better if we had been in Sicily.
     
    Salvatore now is the chef for the Sicilian restaurant Cacio e Vino in Manhattan where we often go for dinner. If you go there ask for Salvatore, he never disappoints. So I decided to ask him why his food is so good and how he keeps it so genuine, just like my grandmother’s.
     
    Salvatore’s earliest memories are of his mother Candida and his grandmother Vitina cooking. He watched them with great interest and asked them if he could help. Not only did his mother let him help, but she took the time to show him every single step of the dish that she was preparing! He feels that his love of food and cooking comes from those happy days in the kitchen with his mother and grandmother.
     
    He also has fond memories of large family gatherings and the food at Christmas (fried baccala, peperoni ripeni),  New Years Eve (lentils and sausages, cardi fritti, carciofi repieni, zucca in agrodolce, sfinci with sugar and cassatelle di ricotta fritte) and lunch on New Years Day (caponata, fritture in pastella, sarde a beccafico, baked ziti, falsomagro with Sicilian ragu, and cassata).
     
    Making Cous Cous, a Trapanese specialty, was a family event with the women doing the cooking and his father buying the fish early in the morning to make sure that he would get only the freshest. Occasionally, he would not get the varieties that his wife Candida wanted and he would never hear the end of it. Salvatore would watch the women cook and if he got up early would go with his father.  Like his mother, Salvatore made it quite clear that the true Cous Cous is only made with fish. Use anything else and it would not taste right. My grandmother from Palermo (which is not far from Trapani) never heard of Cous Cous.
     
    One of his mother’s favorite dishes was pasta with sardines (pasta con sarde). She would only make it using bucatini or malfadine pasta because it worked well with the other ingredients including wild fennel, pine nuts anchovies and raisins.
     
    His mother made a meat dish I had never heard of. She called it agglassato. braised eye of round beef ( girello) cooked with sliced onions in a covered pot over a slow fire. The sauce made a great pasta dish using bucatini.
     
    Salvatore (chiamato affettuosamente, “Toto”) soon began cooking for his friends and classmates at informal gatherings and parties and was in great demand. After graduation he wanted to learn more and went to work in a local seafood restaurant. He enjoyed the experience and was offered a job with Peppe Giuffre, a well known chef and owner of a catering company. When Pepe Giuffre opened a Sicilian restaurant in Paris, Salvatore went with him and through these experiences he perfected his technical skills.
     
    To gain more experience Salvatore worked in restaurants in New York, Washington D.C, Los Angles and London. These experiences brought him into contact with many different cooking styles and philosophies, from food piled higher and higher to dishes covered with foam, and everything in between.
    His cookbook “I Tesori della Cucina Siciliana” was very well received in Sicily and was  in all the stores, when I was there.
     
    Salvatore feels very strongly about “la Famiglia”.  Cooking and food in Sicily revolves around the family. It is a convivium, cooking and eating with the whole family sitting around the table in their own environment talking and laughing.
     
    Food, he feels, is like art and follows the fashions of the times. Some inventive chefs use different combinations of food to express what is in vogue. Salvatore feels that while they should express themselves, there is a line that they should not cross. Some of these chefs are like alchemists with their strange combinations of ingredients and techniques. They cross the line when it becomes more art then food.
     
    Salvatore believes that his mother’s cooking was the best. She used time tested methods, the best and freshest ingredients and traditional recipes. The love with which she cooked was reflected in the love for her family, a combination that is hard to beat.
     
    Salvatore feels that good coking comes from his family and the good ingredients in the earth. When Salvatore cooks for you it is like being part of his family.
  • Life & People

    Frizzante and Spumante


     

    Moscato d’ Asti DOCG and
    Asti DOCG

     

        Every year for my birthday, August 24, Michele makes my favorite foods.   We have deep fried zucchini flowers stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies in the afternoon sitting on the terrace while we sip Prosecco.  For dinner, we start with figs and prosciuttos, followed by pasta alla martriciana, and drink a red wine from Lazio.  For dessert, she will make me a fruit tart. This year, it was blueberry and I was undecided whether to open a Moscato d’ Asti or Asti Spumante to go with it. This got me to thinking about what these wines have in common (why many people confuse them) and how they are different.

     

       Both of these wines come from the same region--Piedmont, are made from the same grape--Moscato, come from the same town-- Asti, both are sparkling, should be consumed young and  have the same freshness and aromas.  No wonder people so often confuse them.

     

    The Moscato Grape

       This grape was known to both the Ancient Greeks and Romans and It may have been the first grape cultivated.  It was first called Apica and Apicus and later Pliny called it Apianae because the sweetness of the grapes attracted the
    Alps (bees). There are many different varieties of Moscato and it is grown throughout the Italian peninsula. It is the fourth most planted grape in
    Italy    . It is uncertain when the Moscato Bianco grape arrived in Piedmont, but by the end of the 16th century it was being made into wine. In
    Piedmont it is called Moscato di Canelli, after the town in the heart of the growing area. The Moscato grape ripens early and it is the first to be harvested in
    Piedmont around the second week of September. This Moscato is one of the sweetest and most versatile of grapes and tastes like the wine itself.   Both the grapes and the wines are classified as aromatic.

     

       Giovan Battista Croce in his book “Of the excellent and diversity of the wines made on the hills of
    Turin and how to make them”    ((1606).  This book, written so long ago, contains the principles of wine making that are still used for Moscato today. He recommends repeatedly interrupting the alcohol fermenting process with pouring off and to drop the temperature by immersing he bottles of wine in vats of ice.  This was his most relevant contribution because cold fermentation is the basis for all Moscato d
    Asti     and Asti Spumante.

     

        Croce also gives a description with detailed illustrations on how to filter using small bags made out of hemp. The traditional method still calls for hemp bags to filter the wine. Croce even managed to make a Moscato whose sweetness and light sparkle lasted all year round.   Moscato d’Asti is locally known as the wine of the peasantry.

     

      Spumante was born around 1865 thanks to Carlo Gancia.  After a trip to France, he started to re-ferment his wine in the bottle and called it “Moscato
    Champagne    ” and later “Moscato Spumante”.  This was the start of the industrial side of
    Asti     (mass production).  The name
    Asti     was given to the wine by his son Camillo Gancia.

     

       This spumante was fermented in the bottle leading to many complications not the least of which was exploding glass bottles until Franco Martinotti invented his Martinotto method whereby the wine is fermented in large containers making it easier and less expensive to produce sparkling wine.  His method was perfected and patented by him at the end of the 18th century.

    (In
    France     it is known as the Charmat method).

     

        When cold fermentation is added to these large stainless containers, we have modern Moscato d’ Asti and
    Asti.

    The wine can be kept in the tanks at the low temperature and released at different times of the year so that it will remain fresh.

     

      Moscato d’
    Asti    . Only 5% of all the Moscato grapes harvested are used for this wine.  Slightly sweeter then
    Asti, it is frizzante  meaning lightly sparkling. Producers achieve this effect by stopping fermentation before it is fully developed; the result is less alcohol, between 5%-7% and the wine keeps its sweetness. Since it is not under that much pressure a regular cork (flat cork) is used and you need a corkscrew. The wine is vintage dated and should be drunk young.

     

       
    Asti     is the proper name for the Moacato wine that is spumante fully sparking and some producers still use the old name, Asti Spumante.  A mushroom-shaped cork is needed, sometimes with a wire to help hold it down.  The bottle is opened by hand, twisting the cork until it comes out of the bottle.  If not done correctly it will give a loud “pop” and could cause damage.  Most
    Asti     today is tank-fermented by the large producers, although some small producers use the metodo classico (fermentation in bottle).

     

      
    Asti     requires that the fermentation be stopped just as it reaches its peak-no later-to produce a fully sparkling wine with low alcohol (about 9%) and enough sweetness to make it a desert wine.

     

       Non-vintage Asti made by the large producers is made in great quantities and is more popular abroad then in
    Italy    .  Both wines have aromatic flavors of peaches, apricots, honey, and orange blossom with hints of lemon and wisteria and are both classified as aromatic wines!  The wine should be served within two years of bottling so it does not lose its freshness and aroma. It should be served cold but not frigid.

     

       I like to drink
    Asti     from a flute but for the Moscato d’Asti a medium white wine glass will do.  I enjoy these wines with fresh fruit and the
    Asti     with Panettone.  I can even drink them on their own.  They are in many ways the perfect dessert wines. Low in alcohol with a pleasant sweetness, they have fruit aroma and flavor and not expensive.  It is the perfect way to end a meal.

     

    The Vietti Cascinetta Moscato was my choice to drink as the dessert wine for my birthday dinner.

     

    After much study (tasting) I prefer Moscato d’ Asti to Asti, after dinner but the
    Asti for celebrations.

    It is more difficult to find a good
    Asti     in this country.  Growing up in a large Italian/American family we drank Asti during the holidays, and never straight up putting sugar cubes in the
    Asti     or adding fruit drinks or different liquors.

     

    Here is a list of producers with a * next to the ones that I drink the most. The prices range from $12 - $20

     

    Moscato D’Asti

     

    Vietti - Cascinetta Moscati d’Asti 2007*

    Ceretto Moscato d’ Asti 2007*

    Fontanafredda – Moscato d’Asti “ Moncucco” *

    La Spinetta – Moscato d’Asti “Bricco Quaglia”

    Marchesi di Barolo – Moscato d’ Asti

    Marenco – Moscato d’Asti 2007

    Michele Chiarlo – “Involce” Moscato 2007 (375)*

    Cascina Castlet Moscato d’
    Asti*

    Elio Perrone – Moscato d‘Asti Clarte 2007**

     

     


    Asti

    Giuseppe Contratto –
    Asti “De Miranda” Metodo Classico .     This is a single vineyard
    Asti    . The Champenoise method of bottle fermentation is used. The Champenoise method is called Metodo Classico in Italian. It has received the Three Glass award from Gambero Rosso for the last few years. The 2000 vintage was the wine of the year in 2003 in Gambero Rosso. It is more expensive but well worth the extra money. ***

     

    Gancia –
    Asti     Spumante

    Martini –
    Asti Spumante

    Villa Rossa –
    Asti Spumante

    Cinzano –
    Asti

    Nardo –
    Asti

    Mondoro -
    Asti

     

     

     

     

     
  • Life & People

    Fiorano Rosso, "The Noblest Roman Of Them All"


                When in
    Rome, I go to wine stores looking for a very rare and special wine, Fiorano Rosso.  I make the rounds of stores like Trimani, Enoteca Cavour, etc., and ask if they have any.  The answer is always the same,”not any more”. 

     

    About ten years ago I got lucky and found the 1991 vintage at Trimani. I brought as much as I could carry. One of my favorite restaurants, Checchino dal 1887, had vintages going back to 1961 but I guess I drank them all!  For a very brief time, the 1982 was imported into the
    United States.

     

    Once I found three cases of the 1971 at auction. I do not have any more 1971 or 1982 left. However I gave a 1971 away because it was the wedding anniversary year of very good friends. They still have the bottle and I am trying to get them to open it for me. I will be in
    Rome     again in September but have little hope of finding any more Fiorano Rosso.

     

                Every two weeks for the last few years I would go to the internet and type in the word Fioriano. The response would always be the same.  Two Fiorano Bianco’s were available, one made from Malvasa Candia and the other from Semillon.  They are easy to get -- but the red that was a different story. Two months go I searched again and to my amazement Fiorano Rosso was listed, the 1992 and 1994 vintages.  I called the wine store and the salesperson gave me the third degree, wanting to know if I was familiar with the wine because it was “very particular”?   I told her that I have been drinking the Fiorano Rosso since 1981 and was familiar with vintaegs as old as 1961.  I asked how many bottles were available and said I would take all of them. However there was a problem...

     

                Often I am asked if I have a favorite wine. This is a very difficult question to answer, because with different foods and at different times I like different wines. However if I really had to name one it would be Fiorano Rosso. It is a wine made by a prince and fit for a king. This is a full bodied wine with great depth. The flavors and aromas of leather and cherry dominate making it a unique drinking experience.

     

    The wine was made by Alberigo Boncompagni Ludovisi, Principe di Venosa with merlot and cabernet sauvignon grapes.  Burton Anderson, in his landmark Italian wine book Vino, called Fiorano Rosso “the noblest Roman of them all”.  The Prince’s few aces of vines are planted along the Appian Way about 20 kilometers southwest of the center of
    Rome     and almost right next to Roman’s second airport, Ciampino. It is the best cabernet/merlot blend made it
    Italy     and one of the best in the world!  In my opinion--and I am in the minority here--one of the best places in the world to grow Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot is in Lazio close to Rome.

     

                The Boncompagni Ludovisi family is one of the oldest in
    Rome     and includes a pope (Gregorio X111 who was born Ugo Boncompagni).  When it comes to wine the Prince goes his own way.  He is a traditionalist and may have been one of the first to practice organic farming.  Marchese Piero Antnori of Tuscan wine fame is the Prince’s son-in-law, but unfortunately, they not get along.  The Prince said he would destroy all his vines rather than see Piero get hold of them.  I do not think he likes the modern methods that Piero uses to make Antinori wine.  When the Prince was asked if he would save the vines for his grandchildren, he said that they learned about wine from their father, Piero, and not from him.  The prince’s wine consultant was the late Tancredi Biondi-Santi, also a traditionalist, of Brunello fame.   The Prince has a passion for his vines and his wines and does not give interviews.  Even the late Luigi Veronelli, the dean or Italian wine writers, had a very difficult time with him.

     

          Eric Asimov, The New York Times wine columnist, went to
    Rome     and tasted the Fiorano white wines, which he liked very much.  He wrote an article about them, “An Italian Prince and His Magic Cellar” (Dec. 22 2004).   I enjoyed reading the article and also like the white wines.  Not long after the article was printed, I was invited to taste wines at The Times with Mr. Asimov.  I told him that I had three vintages of the red Fiorano from 1991, 1989 and 1986. He was very interested so I invited him for dinner.  It took four years and finally last March we had the dinner. Michele made lasagna from the town of Anagni just south of
    Rome (The recipe is available in her book, Italian Holiday Cooking, William Morrow.)  We also drank the 1990 Torre Ercolana from Cantina Colacicchi in Anagni, made with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and a local grape, Affilan Cesanese.  This wine is only available at the Trimani wine store in
    Rome    .  The main course was a simple roast lamb, a perfect combination with the Fiorano.

               

    Mr. Asimov wrote about the dinner in his blog THE POUR on July 27th 2008. http://thepour.blogsnytimes.com/2008/07/29/mysteries-with-a-menu/.  Jeremy Parzen was also a guest and wrote it for his blog [email protected] and on www.vinowire.com    

     

                Sadly, the prince, who must be in his late 80’s by now, stopped making wine commercially in 1995 because of his age and that of the vines. When I ask friends in the wine business in Rome about what has happened, they tell me that the property is so close to Rome that there might be pressure to build condos.

     

                Some wine writers have compared Fiorano Rosso to a
    Bordeaux and others to Sassicaia.  I can see the comparison to great old style
    Bordeaux     but not to Sassicaia. Fiorano Rosso was made with great passion and with no concern for the opinion of wine writers, the wine market, or economics.  It is a traditional wine which brings out the terroir and the true character of the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes. 

     

    There is mixed opinion on which is the better wine the white or the red.  A few years ago, the prince sold off 14,000 bottles of his white wine but none of his red. When he pulled out his vines he only left a small amount of Cabernet and Merlot. Which wines do you think the prince preferred!?

     

    PS  I am still waiting for the Fiorano Rosso I ordered recently. The salesperson  does not know how many bottles I can have and whether or not they will arrive this fall!

     

    I have been invited to a two day wine tasting(Sept.17&18) in Montefalco (
    Umbria) to taste Sagrantino. Michele will meet me in Rome for five days and then we will be on the cruise to Sicily, Malta and
    Tunisia    www.traveldynamics.com. 

     
  • Life & People

    Two Italian Classics -- Prosecco and Panettone



     Prosecco DOC

     

     

                When I visit Rome, the first restaurant I go to is either Da Giggetto in the Jewish Quarter or Il Matriciano on the via Gracchi near he Vatican. I do not need a menu and always order the same appetizer Fiori di zucchine ripiene con mozzarella e acciughe, fried zucchini flowers stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies. This goes perfectly with a bottle of sparkling Prosecco, a wine I enjoy with fried foods and with a variety of snacks.                         

     

    Prosecco is the largest selling sparkling wine in Italy and Italians drink it all the time. They have it in the afternoon at the cafes, before dinner, and at celebrations such as weddings and birthdays. In fact, no self-respecting Roman or Venetian would go out to dinner without first having a glass of Prosecco.

     

                Prosecco is made in the Veneto about on hour by car from Venice to the south or Cortina D'Ampezzo (the famous ski resort) in the Dolomites to the north in the province of Treviso. The two towns that form the DOC limits for Prosecco production are Conegliano and Valdobbiadene.  Prosecco can be made in others areas, but the best come from here.  

     

    In addition to the sparkling variety, it can also be made secco, as a dry, still wine. It is difficult to find still Prosecco because there is such a large demand for the sparkling that there are not enough grapes for the still variety. The first time I was in Valdobbiadene, the producers called still Prosecco tranquillo (tranquil) to distinguish it from the sparkling. There is amabile(sweetish) Prosecco and dolce (sweet).  The sparking can be produced in two types frizzante (slightly sparkling) or spumante (sparkling).  It can be Brut or Extra Dry. Brut is dryer then Extra Dry. It is made from the Prosecco grapes (85- 100%) with the addition of Verdiso, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio,and Chardonnay up to 15%. Most Prosecco is non-vintage.

     

                Sparkling Prosecco is made by the Charmat method, meaning that they are given their second fermentation in a temperature controlled stainless steel tank rather then in the bottle.

     

    The average vineyard holdings in the DOC area are very small and most large producers have to buy their grapes from many different vineyard owners.  The Cartizze is a sub-zone in the heart the DOC area: 106 hectares of vineyards in the municipality of Valdobbiadene among the steepest slopes of San Pietro di Barbozzo, Santa Stefano and Saccol. This is a Super Cru and it is divided into very small plots with many different owners.  Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze will cost two to three times as much as regular Prosecco. 

     

    For a perfect summer drink, blend white peach juice with Prosecco for that famous drink invented at Harry's Bar in Venice: The Bellini.

     

                Recently I went to a Prosecco tasting in the Time Warner Center in Manhattan and was able to taste a number sparkling Prosecco's.  Here are some of the producers whose wines I enjoyed:

     

    Bisol – This producer has over 50 hectares of vineyards, including 3 in the prize Cartizze zone.

    Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Spumente Brute "Crede" ($24) is a special Cru  which gets its name  from the clayey soils  and subsoils known as crede. It is made from Prosecco, Verdiso and Pinot Bianco grapes. It makes an excellent Bellini.

     

    Prosecco di Cartizze 2007 ($48)

     

    Mionetto

    Prosecco di Conegliano Valdobbiadene Spumente Extra Dry ($20)

     

    Valdobbiadene Spumante Superiore di Cartizze Dry ($40)

     

                I was invited a few days later to a seminar: Sergio Component Tasting and Luncheon (at Remi Restaurant). The speaker was Sergio Mionetto, one of the owners of this family operated winery. We tasted Mionetto Sergio, a sparkling wine that can not be called Prosecco because it only has 70% Prosecco di Valdobbiadene and such grapes as Verdiso, Bianchetta, Perera and Chardonnay. All of these grapes come from the Veneto.

     

                Signor Mionetto is a knowledgable and entertaining speaker. He spoke about both Prosecco in general and his own wines. One of the most interesting parts for me was the component tasting. Each one of the grapes that go into Mionetto Sergio ($24) was tasted as a still wine. Then we tasted them all combined: the Sergio base wine in its tranquil state and finally, the Sparkling Sergio Cuvee. It was very informed to see how each grape is necessary to make the final blend.  We were also served a Mionetto Sergio Rose' ($27)

    Monetto's production is more then 1,000,000 bottles.

      

                Mionetto also uses a crown cap closure (like the ones on beer bottles) on its Prosecco.  We were informed that this was the closure used in the Italian market for Prosecco.  It also is used in Champagne before disgorging.  It keeps the wine fresher and prevents it from becoming corked.  I do not see anything wrong with the crown cap for this type of wine.

             

     

    Francesco Drusian– Prosecco "Guyot" Extra Dry" ($ 18 )

     

    Valdo –

    Prosecco di ConeglianoValdobbiadene Spumante Brut "Cuvee del Fondatore"

    ( $ 18 ).

    Valdobbiadene Spumante Superiore di Cartizze Dry "Cuvee Vivana"($40)

     

    Adami – Prosecco di Conegliano Valdobbiadene Spumante Dry "Vigneto Giardino" 2007

    ($21)

     

    Cantine Maschio – Prosecco di Conegliano Valdobbiadene Brut "Maschio del Cavalieri"($18)

     

    Zardetto – Prosecco di Conegliano Valdobbiadene Spumante Dry "Zeta" 2007

    ($ 22).

     

    Cantina Colli Del Soligo – Prosecco di Conegliano Valdobbianene Spumante Brut

    ( $ 18 ).

     

                Two weeks later I was invited to a breakfast at the Italian Trade Commission hosted by the Bauli Company. This is an Italian company with headquarters in Verona. They are the makers of Panettone, a yeast cake made with raisins and orange peel, and Pandoro di Verona, Italy's most popular Christmas cake.  Michele Bauli spoke about the history of his company and why he believed they make the best products. They use only premium butter and natural yeast in compliance with Italy's strict standards and legal requirements for the products in compliance with DOP regulations.  Only the best ingredients are used and only natural leavening that gives the products a long shelf life. It takes 40 hours to produce a product with such lightness and fragrance and they do not use chemical additives or preservatives. Signor Bauli said that there were some companies that were selling Panettone in this country made with inferior ingredients.  I called these "Phony Panettone".

     

     When I tasted the Panettone I had to agree with Signor Bauli, it was light, fragrant and moist, with the flavor of the raisins and orange peel. The same can be said for the tender, buttery Pandoro di Verona. There was also a great tasting Panettone Bread Pudding.  I complemented Signor Bauli on the wonderful aroma coming from the Panettone.  He replied that "in Italy they place Bauli Panettone near the radiators to fill the house with the wonderful smell."

     

                What does all of this have to do with Prosecco? When I asked Signor Bauli what do you drink with Panettone his first answer was Prosecco!

     

    I am going to France for three weeks at the end of July and the beginning of August to enjoy the second part of a trip I purchased at a Cancer Care for Kids Auction last year.

     

    LET'S GO TO SICILY TOGETHER!

     

    Michele and I will be the wine and food hosts on a Cruise: Sicily, Malta & Tunisia, Crossroads of Mediterranean Civilization. The guest lectures will be Professor Philips of Vanderbilt University and Professor Ulrich of Dartmouth.

    www.traveldynamicsinternational.com   We would love to have you join us. 

    212-517-7555 or 800-725-5767

     

    UPCOMING APPEARANCE ** Cool Italian Wines/ Hot Summer Nights

     

     

    I am teaching a class at the Astor Center: Cool Italian Wines/ Hot Summer Nights

    on August 14 at 6: 30  www.astorcenternyc.com/class-cool-italian-wines-hot-summer-nights.ac  212-674-7501

     

     

     

     
  • Life & People

    Wine,Winemakers and Restaurants in the Langhe


    Tasting wines blind, concentrating on each without speaking to anyone is a great opportunity, but very lonely. I looked forward to the afternoons when I visited the wine makers and the evenings at the restaurants in the company of the other journalists. We were able to choose the wineries we visited.  Some of the producers were old friends while others I met for the first time.

     

    Restaurants

     

     We had dinner at restaurant Vecchio Tre Stelle just outside the town of Barbaresco. I enjoyed the company of wine writers from Hong Kong and Malta. Maurilio Palladino, the owner of Palladino winery, was also at the table. There was a lively discussion centering on wine and food.  The menu was chosen for us so that we could all give our opinions about the wine and food combinations. The first course was carne cruda, the Piemontese version of steak tartar.  Half of the meat was topped with chopped roasted red peppers and the other half with pesto. Next came the agnolotti del plin, fresh pasta filled with meat in a reduced meat sauce. Roasted capretto (goat) was the main course.  Signor Palladino prefers Barbaresco with goat, pigeon, and             coniglio (rabbit), but chooses Barolo for heartier meats such as beef and venison.  Personally I think it depends on how the meat is prepared. I prefer Barbaresco with risotto with white truffles and Barolo with risotto and porcini mushrooms, but would be happy with either one.

     

    Osteria Dell'Arco is on the main square in Alba. It has very good wine list and even

    with the euro being so high many wines are priced lower then they would be in a restaurant in New York. I had the classic tajarin pasta, egg rich tagliatelle with meat ragu, followed by rabbit and both were excellent.

     

    Ristorante Osteria Lalibera was not in the center of town but no more than a 10

    minute walk away. Though some dishes have been updated, it also serves traditional dishes such as la finanziera, a rich meat stew made with cocks' combs and other delicacies.  When the American journalist I was with ordered it, the waitress asked "Do you know what it is"?  He just nodded his head.  It's definitely not for the faint hearted. 

    I had a plump roasted pigeon.

     

    Wine Producers I visited

     

    Poderi Colla (Barbaresco)

     Started by Tino Colla and his niece Federica Colla in 1993. I met Beppe Colla, Tino's brother one of the legendary wine makers in the Langhe, who for many years was the wine maker at Prunotto.  Today he advises on the wines for the family winery.  We tasted 12 wines from their estates: four Nebbiolo D'Alba from Cascine Drago, four Barbaresco from Tenuta Roncaglia and four Barolo Bussia, from Dardi le Rose, Monforte. The 2003 Barbaresco and Barolo were the best I have tasted from this difficult vintage. All of the wines were classic in style and displayed the best aromas and flavors of the Nebbiolo grape and the terroir.

     

    Vietti (Castiglione Falletto)

    When Michele and I first went to visit Alfredo and Luciana Currado from the Vietti winery in 1981, we became friends almost instantly. We shared many adventures together both in Piedmont, Manhattan and Brooklyn. The first time I visited, I came because of the wine, but this time I came to visit our old friends. The winery and their home are under construction so they invited me to the restaurant Le Torre next to the winery and their home in Castiglione Falletto.

     

    Luciana is an excellent cook and I knew the restaurant would be good if she approved of it. Alfredo knows that I like old wines and always opens something interesting. On another visit in 1985, Alfredo took us for pizza and opened a magnum of 1961 Barolo, the first wine that he made. This time he opened a 1989 Barolo Brunate that was a perfect combination with the food.  I had carne cruda, tajarin and roast pork. Luca, their son, is the winemaker now and has brought the winery a new popularity but I always loved Alfredo's traditional style, especially his Barolo Rocche.

     

    Cavalotto Filli-Bricco Broschis (Castiglione Falleto)

    Here we were treated to a vertical of Barolo from the Bricco Broschis vineyard in the years 1971, 1978, 1989, 1985, 1990 and 1999.  The wines were made in the traditional, classic style and had the great flavors and aromas of the terroir and the Nebbiolo grape. The 1971 was beginning to show its age but it still had time. As I tasted the wines it was easy to see the relationship of the style from the 1971 right through to the 1999.

     

    Pio Cesare Alba)

    Pio Boffa, the owner, is a man for all seasons. We began our conversation not about wine but about the restaurant scene in New York City. Pio visits NYC often and travels all over the world and wants to know what the best hot new restaurants are. I can imagine Pio having the same conversation about restaurants in Hong Kong with the wine journalist from there.

     

    The Pio Cesare winery is in Alba, however Pio sent a car.  It took longer by car than walking from the hotel!  I tasted the regular '04 Barbaresco and Barolo.  They were showing very well. The 2003 Ornato Barolo, made in a more modern style, showed very well also.

     

    Oddero Poderi e Cantine ( La Morra )

    The tasting was conducted by Luca Veglio and Maria Cristina Oddero. I tasted Barolo from their Vigna Rionda, Villero, Brussia Soprana, Vigna Mondoca vineyards.  The wines had all of the typical flavors and aromas of the Nebbiolo grape. Some seemed to have a little "modern" touch to them but it did not interfered with the flavors of the wine.

    It was a very informative tasting.

     

    Fontanafredda (Serralunga D' Alba)

    Last February I was invited to a wine tasting in New York City of Fontanafredda Barolo dating back to 1967 from the Vigna La Rosa vineyard.  The tasting was conducted by the winemaker Danilo Drocco.  He became the wine maker in 1999 and it was interesting to taste wines from both Signor Drocco and his predecessors.  Before Fontanafredda, he worked with Beppe Colla at Pronotto.

     

    At the winery we tasted Barolo Lazzarite from their Vigna La Delizia. There were 11 wines in all going back to 1974.  I learned a lot from Signor Drocco's presentation and enjoyed tasting wines from two different vineyards and comparing them to the wines I tasted in New York.

     

    We visited three wineries in Barolo:  Giorgio Scarzello & Figli, Giacomo Brezza & Figli and Giuseppe Rinaldi.

     

    Winemaker Federico Scarzello took us through a tasting of six wines. He felt that in Barolo the 2005 was a better vintage than the 2004 because it was a more aggressive vintage, had very good acidity and would last for many years. While the 2004 was like the 2000, the 2005 was like the 2001 in Barolo, a bigger more structured wine. Federico also spoke about the different vineyards and how they each had their own unique characteristics. We ended the tasting with an excellent 1979 Barolo.

     

    Enzo Brezza agreed with Federico that in Barolo 2005 was the better vintage. I especially liked the 2001 Barolo from the Canubbi vineyard.

    He showed us the new glass stoppers for the Albeisa bottle that has a little piece of plastic to keep it in place. Pulling the glass "cork" he put it back in and turned the bottle upside

    down.  The "cork" stayed in place.

     

    Giuseppe Rinaldi – We were taken on a tour of the winery by Mrs. Rinaldi. Her husband was in the Veneto in the town of Bassano del Grappa for the annual meeting of the Alpini

    (an alpine army regiment).  We toured the winery and tasted three wines, all in the classic style.

     

    Vintages

     

    The 2002 vintage was not very good and many producers did not make Barolo or Barbareso.  Even fewer made a Riserva. 2002 wines should be drunk young.

     

    2001 was a classic vintage like the 1996.  Some producers in Barolo felt it was one of the greatest, comparable to the legendary vintages of 1964 and 1971.  There was a walk around tasting of the 2001 at the Museo Cavatappi (Corkscrew Museum) in Barolo where 500 corkscrews dating from the 18 century to today from all over the world are on display.  Two of my favorite Barolo producers were represented: Bartolo Mascarello and Francesco Rinaldi & Figli. These are great wines in a great vintage.

     

     

    1995 through 2001 were all very good vintages; though some were better then others.  This was a matter of opinion among the wine writers and producers.  Somehow the 1998 vintage has been overlooked.  I tasted 5 Roero, 14 Barbaresco and 35 Barolo from that vintage.  There were a number of wines that I liked.  At 10 years old, some are almost ready to drink and are a good value.

    Roero 1998 Doc

    1.Carbone Monchiero-Printi(Cru)

    2.Giacomo Vico(Superiore)

     

    Barbaresco DOCG 1998

    1. Ada Nada-Cichin(Cru)

    2. Dante Rivetti Riserva –Bricco(Cru)

    3 .Moccagatta-Bricco(Cru)

     

    Barolo DOCG 1998

    1. Claudio Alario-Riva(Cru)

    2. Cavallotto F.lli- Riserva - Bricco Boschis(Cru)

    3. Famiglia Anselma-Adasi(Cru)

    4. Moncherio Fratelli-Montanello(Cru)

    5. Giovanni Viberti-Buon Padre(Cru)

    6. Renato Ratti-Conca(Cru)

    7. Giorgio Scarzello &Figlio, Vigna Merenda(Cru)

     

    Next time the three P's: Panettone, Pandoro and Prosecco

     

     

     

     
  • Life & People

    Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero: a Tasting


    Pietro Ratti, President of the Unione Produttori Vini Albesi, invited me to attend the 13th edition of the Alba Wines Exhibition from May 7 to 11.

     

    Alba in Piedmont is a very busy town with good restaurants and wine shops. It is also the most important wine town in the region and the center for the white truffle trade. Last fall the precious tubers were selling for $600 an ounce.

     

    The formal wine tasting took place in the morning over a period of five days and I tasted 301 wines from 164 producers: 11 Roero DOCG 2005, 70 Barbaresco DOCG 2005, 7 Barbaresco Riserva 2003 DOCG, 161 Barolo 2004 DOCG , 1 Barolo  Riserva DOCG 2002, 5 Roero 1998 DOC, 14  Barbaresco 1998 DOCG and 34 Barolo 1998 DOCG. All of the wines except for the 1998's were tasted blind. It was a great opportunity to sample so many wines blind and therefore to concentrate on the wine without prior judgment.

     

    In the afternoons we visited two wine makers a day and tasted more wine. In the evening with dinner there was more wine to taste.  (Yes, -- it is a difficult job but someone has to do it!)  There was a lot of wine but the event was very well organized, so that you did not feel rushed and there was time to recover.  A number of journalists from other countries attended the event, and I also enjoyed the opportunity to discuss wines with them.

     

    The roots of this association go back to 1700 when the producers in this area, proud of their wine, decided to create a different bottle shape which they called Albeisa (from Alba).  After the Napoleonic period, this bottle shape was abandoned in favor of the Bordeaux style bottle.  In 1973, 16 local producers decided to use the Albeisa bottle again and the association was formed.  Keeping up with modern times in 2007, they released the Albeisa bottle screw cap and the Albeisa glass cork. The association, along with the Riedel glass company, created an Albeisa tasting glass that was used at the formal tastings.

     

    I found the overall quality of the wines to be excellent.  The wines that I liked the most had the classical Nebbiolo flavors and aromas:  tobacco, cedar, tar, faded roses, tea, leather, coffee, hazelnuts, meat, and the umani flavors like soy sauce, mushrooms, earth and the most elusive white truffles. There seemed to be less oak and many of the wines made in a more international style still let the flavors of the grape and terroir come through.

            

     Here are some of my favorites: 

    Cru= Single Vineyard. * = My particular favorites

     

    Roero

    The red wines of the Roero area of Piedmont, north of the Tanaro River opposite Barbaresco, are little known and undervalued in this country. They mature faster than Barolo and Barbaresco. The wine must be aged for at least two years and have a minimum alcoholic content of 12.5%. It is made from at least 95% Nebbiolo and 5% of other red grapes, non aromatic, grown in the area.

     

    1. La Contea - Mai Vist (Cru) - Canale  

    2.Renato Buganza - (Cru) Bric Paradis Guarene                              

    3. Angelo Negro & Figli – Prachiosso (Cru) - Monteu Roero

    4. Cantina del Nebbiolo –Vezza D'Alba, Montaldo Roero

     

    Barbaresco DOCG 2005

    Barbaresco comes from the area around the towns of Barbaresco, Neive, Treiso and Alba (San Rocco Seno d'Elvio locality).  65 other geographical denominations can also be on the labels (e.g. Cru designations).

     

    Barbaresco is made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes of the Michet, Lampia and Rose' subvarieties. The minimum aging is two years of which one has to be in casks and four years for the Riserva. The minium alcohol content is 12.5 %.

     

    1. Francesco Rinaldi & Figli –Barbaresco *

    2. Poderi Colla-Roncaglie (Cru)- Barbaresco

    3. Produttori del Barbaresco- Barbaresca and Neive *

    4. Prunotto - Barbaresco.- Treiso and Nieve

    5. La Contea - Ripa Sorita (Cru) - Nieve

    6. Albino Rocca -Vigneto Brich Ronchi (Cru) - Barbaresco

    7. Albino Rocca - Vigneto Loreto (Cru) – Barbaresco

    8. Carlo Boffa – Vitalotti (Cru) Barbaresco

    9. Rivetto Dal 1902 - Ce' Vanin (Cru)- Neive

     

    Langhe and Roero

    For the most part the climatic conditions in 2005 were normal and more than satisfactory and therefore the vintage in both the Langhe and Roero was very good.

    On a scale1-10, I would rate the Vintage an 8+

    The Nebbiolo grapes picked in the Langhe and Roero were healthy, with high concentrated sugar, good acidity and an excellent pheonological makeup. The wines have good alcoholic levels, color, and typical Nebbiolo flavors and aromas. The 2005 vintage had 10- 15% lower yields than the 2004. Most producers rated the 2004 as a slightly better vintage though some in the Barolo area believed that 2005 was the better vintage.

     

    Barolo DOCG 2004

    1. Francesco Rinaldi & Figli – (Cru) Canubbio- Barolo *

    2. Giorgio Scarzella & Figli – ( Cru) -Vigna Merenda- Barolo *

    3.  Francesco Sobrero -  (Cru) Ciabot Tanasio-Castiglione Falletto

    4. Viberti -  (Cru) Vigneti Rocche-Castiglione Falletto )

    5. Prunotto-Barolo, Monforte D'Alba, Serralunga D'Alba

    6. Luciano Sandrone - (Cru) Le Vigne-Barolo, Monforte D'Alba Novello (More international style)

    7. Vietti (Cru) Rocche - Castiglione Falletto (More international style)

    8. Gianfranco Bovio - (Cru) Vigna Gattera- La Mora

    9. Mario Gagliasso - (Cru) Rocche Dell' Annunziata- La Mora *

    10. Eugenio Bocchino - (Cru) La Serra-La Mora

    11. Mauro Molino - (Cru) Vigna Conca-La Mora *

    12. Renato Ratti - (Cru) Conca- La Mora

    13. Palladino - (Cru) Serralunga-Seralunga D'Alba

    14. Pio Cesare - Serralunga D'Alba, Grinzane Cavour, La Mora, Novello, Castiglione Falletto

     

     

    The 2004 Vintage

    There was a large amount of rainfall in the first few months of 2004 which restored soil water reserves that had been reduced by the dry, hot summer of 2003.  Summer temperatures were not too high and there were no periods of oppressive heat or too much rain. September and early October had days full of sunshine, no rainfall

    and above average temperatures. The grapes could be picked when they were perfectly sound and ripe. There was some hail on the morning of August 8th but this was limited to a small area in Barolo. Many producers rate this as an excellent vintage. I would give it 9 out of 10.

     

    Barolo is made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes of the Michet, Lampia and Rose' sub varieties in 11 districts lying to the southwest of the town of Alba. It must be aged for three years, two of which must be in casks. If it is aged for five years it can be a Riserva.

    The minimum alcohol content is 13%.

     

    The 2003 Vintage

    The vintage was distinguished by lasting sunny conditions and almost the complete absence of rainfall. Temperatures rose to historic maximums for the area over a long period of time. The alcohol levels were high because of these conditions but there was also just enough acidity.  Nebbiolo grapes were able to ripen almost to perfection, however some of the more exposed were scorched by the sun.  In my opinion, this made it a mixed vintage. Some producers did not make a Riserva in 2003 and then wished that they did. I tasted only a few 2003's and the following had  the classic Nebbiolo flavors and aromas.

     

     

    1. Dante Rivetti -  Barbaresco Riserva-Micca - (Cru)- Neive

    2. Tenuta Roncagila – Barbaresco

    3. Barolo Bussia, Dardi le Rose, Monforte

    The last two were from Poderi Colla and were not tasted blind.

     

    Part 11

    Winery visits, restaurants, where to eat, what to eat and what to drink with it,

    the 2002, 2001 and 1998 vintages, and more.

     I am teaching at the Astor Wine Center in Manhattan on Aug. 14

     212-674-7501

     

     



     
  • Life & People

    Chianti Classico DOCG



          Last month I went to a wine event entitled, The Tuscan Nose, Chianti Classico's Unique Sniff & Savor Tasting.  The tasting included a unique sensory experience, the essence of Chianti Classico, 27 different aromas isolated and re-created by the Italian perfumer Lorenzo Villoresi. These aromas represent scents not only in the wine it self, but also in the terroir, such as black cherry, raspberry, blackberry, tomato leaf, violets, black pepper ,etc, etc. These are the aromas that can be found in the wines.       

                There are eight Chianti zones in Tuscany. The biggest, oldest, and the one that may produce the best wine is the Chianti Classico zone. It is called Classico because of it is the oldest zone of the region and it is in the center of the region.  The Chianti Classico zone, a very large area between Florence and Siena, includes all the territories of the communes of Castellina in Chianti, Gaiole, Greve, and Radda in Chianti and parts of Barberino Val d'Elsa, Castlenuovo Berardegna, Poggibonsi, San Casciano Val di Pesa and Tavarnelle Val di Pesa.

                In 1924, 33 producers get together in Radda in Chianti and founded a consortium to defend and promote Chianti Classico wine and its symbol of origin, the black rooster.

              This symbol has always appeared on the bottles of Chianti Classico produced by consortium members. Not all of the producers of Chianti Classico belonged to the consortium and only members were able to use the black rooster on their bottles. In 2005, however, the black rooster became the emblem of the entire Chianti Classical zone.

                The Chianti Classico Consortium had the words Gallo Nero printed over the head of the rooster on the neck label of all of its bottles. A few years ago the Gallo winery in California sued the Consortium and won the case. The words were removed from the label.

                The black rooster symbol has origins in both the history and legends of Chianti.  It was depicted in a painting by Giorgio Vasari on the ceiling of the Salone del Cinquecento in the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence to indicate the military league of Chianti. There is also the legend of the Black Rooster.  Florence and Siena in the Middle Ages were always fighting each another over land. The leaders of the rival cities decided to have a horse race to determine the boundary lines.  A rider would depart from the capital of each republic and the border would be drawn at the point where the horsemen met. They would set out at dawn by the crowing of a rooster. Siena picked a white rooster and Florence a black rooster. The night before, the black rooster was not fed.  It awoke early and the Florentine rider almost reached the gates of Siena before encountering the other rider.  The rest is history.

                Baron Bettino Ricasoli in the middle of 19 century devised the formula for making Chianti Classico:   Sangiovese with such native varieties as Canaiolo and Colorino.  Two white grapes had to be included, Trebbiano and Malvasia.  It could not be 100% Sangiovese. Many producers back then used the governo method.  Ten percent of the grapes (Canaiolo) were dried and then added to the wine. I believe that there is only one producer today, Querciavalle, that still uses this method.

                Over the years the percentages and the grapes have changed.  Currently, the percentage of Sangiovese is 80% to 100%.  Native varieties such as Canaioio and Colorino or foreign ones including Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot can be added up to 20%. As of the 2006 vintage, the white grapes are no longer allowed.

                Chianti Classico can be aged in wood, steel tanks or glass lined cement tanks; the normale is aged for one year before it is released. The riserva must be aged at least two years and an additional three months in bottle and have an alcohol content of at least 12.5% before it can be released. The riserva is a wine that can age for a number of years. The riserva  had  a gold circle around the black rooster but that stopped in 2005.

                As part of the Tuscan Nose event, a seminar on Chianti Classico was hosted by Mario Pallanti, the president of the Chianti Classico Consortium and the owner and winemaker at Castello di Ama. The other host was David Lynch, former Wine Director of Babbo restaurant.  The seminar was entitled, Chianti Classico Terrior: A Taste Map Exploring The Zones Of The Chianti Classico DOCG. They led an interesting discussion on this topic.  I felt compelled to ask the question, “How can wines containing 20% foreign grapes, aged in barriques and made with modern technology to have an international style still be called Chianti Classico?”  A lively discussion followed with no satisfactory answer given.  Some wine makers in Chianti today are struggling with this question. 

                At the seminar, nine wines from the different Chianti Classico zones were tasted. My favorites were:

    Tenuta di Lilliano  2006 (Castellina in Chianti) 80% Sangiovese, 20% Canaiolo, Colorino and Merlot, ($20).

    Felsina 2006 (Caestelnuovo Berardenga) 100% Sangiovese ($23).

    Isole e Olena 2006 (Barberino Vad'Elsa) 80% Sangiovese, 15% Caniolo 5% other grapes ($23).

    Castello di Ama 2005 (Gaiole in Chianti) 80% Sangiovese, 8% Canaiolo, Malvasia Nera and Merlot ($40).

                At the full tasting, 40 produces presented their wines. I was impressed with the overall quality of the wines.  Here are a few more of my favorites:

                Badia a Coltibuono 2004 Riserva, (Gaiole in Chianti), 90% Sangiovese, 10% Caniolo, ($33). I have been drinking wines from this producer since the 1978 when I first visited the winery.

                Castell'In Villa, Riserva 2003, (Castelnuovo Berardenga) 100% Sangiovese ($30). This is a very traditional winery that makes wines that can last for 20 years or more.

                Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro, 2004. ($45) Sangiovese and a small amount of other varieties. In the past this winery only used native grapes and the governo method. A few years ago I had a Ducale Oro 1947. The wine was 57 years old at the time and in perfect condition. They have changed there methods but still make good wine. Look for older bottles if you can find them.

                Cecchi normale 2006(Castellina in Chianti)  ($15) 85% Sangiovese and 15% Colorino and Caniolo was showing very well. 

                Also showing well was the Dievole La Vendemmia 2005 which is 90% Sangiovese and 10% other Tuscan grapes ($15),

                    When I arrived in Alba for the Barolo and Barbaresco tasting, I was told the sad news that Romano Levi had passed away on May I. In Italy they post the death notice on the walls around the town. On his he was called grappista angelica, the angelic grappa-maker. He was in my opinion the greatest grappa maker in Italy. For more information on Romano Levi see my earlier article on Grappa.

     


     
  • Life & People

    The Island in the Sun Part II


    The restaurant scene is changing in Sicily. In the lower part of Ragusa know as Ragusa Ibla (the ancient part of the city rebuilt in the Baroque style after the earthquake of 1693) there are not one, but two, restaurants with Michelin stars. Locanda Don Serafino is a restaurant, hotel, enoteca, and cigar lounge.  The very large restaurant has a member of rooms and a wine list of about 1000 bottles. It has one Michelin star.  Less then 100 meters away is Il Duomo, a smaller restaurant whose chef worked in Felidia Restaurant in New York.  It has a large wine list and two Michelin stars. Both use Sicilian ingredients with a very modern twist.  It was a pleasure to find such high quality, elegant restaurants in Sicily.

     

    There are two restaurants in Palermo that serve traditional food. One has a very interesting name, Piccolo Napoli. It makes two of my favorite pasta dishes, linguine con nero di seppie, linguine with cuttlefish ink, and bucatini con le sarde, thick spaghetti with sardines and fennel.  They also make perhaps the best caponata di melanzane I have ever tasted. It is in the Borgo market and is closed more than it is open. The other is the Antica Focacceria San Francesco around the corner from where my grandmother was born. They make some of the dishes I grew up with, panelle (fried chickpea fritters), arancini (rice balls) and vastedda (rolls filled with spleen, ricotta and caciocavallo) which we ate for a snack on New Years after midnight. They also serve brioche filled with gelato!

     

    About one hour east of Palermo is the mountain town of Castelbuono, and one of our favorite restaurants, Nangalarruni. The food served here is referred to in Palermo as “mountain food”.  One of my favorite dishes is the stinco di maiale al vino rosso e miele di Castagno, pork shank cooked with red wine and chestnut honey.  The wine list is very interesting.  There are wines from Sicily as well as from other parts of Italy and some from other countries.  When we were last there we had the 2004 Faro from Palari ($75) made from Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, Nocera and other local grapes.  It has a rich aroma of red fruit and on the palate the red fruit is very intense with a long finish and great aftertaste.  It is an elegant, well balanced wine that was the perfect combination with the stinco.

     

    Our first trip to Sicily was in 1970 and in those days, finding a good hotel was almost impossible.  Happily, this also has changed.

     

    We stayed in a very nice hotel in Siracusa, the Hotel Des Etrangers. The rooms were spacious and comfortable and the glass-enclosed dining room on the top floor has a spectacular city view.

     

    One of the best hotels in Sicily is the Villa Igiea e I Florio, about ten minutes from the center of Palermo.  Hilton has taken it over and restored it, retaining all the old world charm.  Having drinks on the terrace looking at the sea with the piano music in the background is magical and made me not want to leave.  My great grand father met my great grand mother here, but that is another story.

     

    The name Florio is connected both with the Hotel Villa Igiea e i Florio and Marsala wine.  Vincenzo Florio, who was originally from Calabria, might have been Sicily’s first real entrepreneur.   He made a fortune in the shipping business along with his son Ignazio.  In 1833 Florio built his winery in Marsala between those of Woodhouse and Ingham and was the first Italian to own a winery there.  Meanwhile, Ignazio brought a private villa located just outside Palermo from an Englishman and named it Igiea after his daughter.  The Villa Igiea e I Florio became an instant hit with the high society at the beginning of the 20th century.

     

    Marsala in Arabic means the port of God and recently we returned to visit the Cantina Florio (for the fourth time). The winery is being restored to make it as it was when first built.

     

    Marsala wine was the invention of an Englishman John Woodhouse quite by accident.  While sailing to pick up cargo he was blown into the port of Marsala.  Not wanting to go home empty- handed, he filled the ship with local wine.  As was the custom of the time, he added alcohol to preserve the wine.  In England, he sold the wine at a high profit and Marsala wine was born. The Royal Navy became Woodhouse biggest client.  Admiral Lord Nelson made it the official wine ration for the British navy.

     

    Benjamin Ingham also made a fortune in the Masala trade as did his nephew Joseph Whitaker.  Marsala became popular in Australia and America.

     

    Marsala has suffered over the years as producers began to use any grape variety and add different ingredients to flavor the Marsala. Many people came to believe that Marsala was a cheap wine only good for cooking.

     

    This has slowly changed over the last 20 years. Most Marsala is made from white grapes: Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia.  It can only be made in Trapani (excluding Alcamo) and on the islands of Egadi and Pantelleria.  The wine must be aged in oak or cherry casks, Fino for one year, the Superiore for two and the Vergine for five. If it is labeled riserva, the aging time is doubled for each one.  It must be at least 18% alcohol.

     

    Marsala is a fortified wine.  Sifone (grape must with 18% alcohol added to it), mosto cotto (caramelized cooked must) are added to the base wine in proportion to the type of Marsala.  Marsala Vergine is 80% of the base wine with 20% pure alcohol added.

     

    This can become very confusing as there are types based on style Fino, Superiore, Superiore Riserva, Vergine, Solera (a system like sherry were younger wine is added to older) and Stravecchio. It can also be classified by sweetness: secco (dry), semisecco (semisweet) and dolce (sweet) and color Oro, Ambra and Rubino (made from Nero d’Avola, Pignatello and Nerello Mascalese, red grapes. Labels can also have information about production methods and marketing.  For example, London Particular (L.P.), Superior Old Masala (S.O.M.), Garibaldi Dolce (G.D.) and Old Particular (O.P.)

     

    One of my favorites is the Marsala Superiore Vigna la Miccia from DeBartoli -- $50. It is made from 50% Grillo and 50% Inzolia grapes and is aged it small oak barrels for five years. It is very aromatic with hints of prunes, figs and a nutty flavor. I like it with Sicilian almonds.  For an interesting combination try it with foie gras.

     

    Marsala can be served as an aperitif or with desert.  Florio makes very good Marsala but only the cooking wine is brought into this country.

     

    We had lunch at the Planeta winery between Menfi and Sambuca di Sicilia.  This winery produced its first wine in1995 and became an instant success.  Sicily has been called the California of Italy and this winery makes very modern style wine.  Many of their wines are highly rated by Gambero Rosso.  With lunch we had three wines:

     

    2007 La Segreta Bianco IGT made from 50% Grecanico, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Viognier and 10% Fiano ($15). Aromatic and fruity with hints of apple, citrus and tropical fruit, it was fresh and fruity on the palate with good acidity.

     

    2006 Cerasuolo di Victoria IGT made from 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Frappato ($21), a very aromatic grape. The wine has red berry flavors, cherry and strawberry with a fresh red berry notes on the palate.

     

    2006 Santa Cecilia IGT made from 100% Nero d’Avola ($40) is a well balanced wine with hints of prune, pomegranate and fig. On the palate there is prune and strawberry with a long finish. They now use a screw cap on their La Segreta and Rose wines. The Rose is made from 100% Syrah.

     

    Olives were brought to Sicily in the 5th century B.C. by the Greeks.  The olive oil became so famous that the many Greek city-states preferred it to their own.  Sicily is also renowned for its eating olives.  The Nocellara del Belice has a firm and somewhat crunchy consistency that makes it seem more meaty. It is grown in the Valle del Belice not far from the Greek ruins at Selinunte.

     

    After visiting this spectacular site, we stopped for lunch at Tenuta Mandranova, a resort in a restored farmhouse and railroad station, in Palma di Montechiaro (where my father’s family originated).  Lunch was served al fresco among the olive trees. We tasted their excellent olive oil made from the Nocella del Belice olive.  It made everything we put it on taste better.

     

    We also tasted a number of olive oils from several other producers.  The Primo green label from Frantoia Cutrera in the Iblei mountains in Southern Sicily was our top pick. It is made from the Tonda Iblea olive and has aromas of herbs and grass.

     

    After our trip, we went to D. Coluccio & Sons in Brooklyn to stock up on imported Italian products.  We were very surprised to see this olive oil on the shelf! (718-463-6700).  The Baglio Seggio Fiorito green label made from 70% Nocellara del Belice, 30% from Cerasuola and Biancolilla olives and the Tenuta Rocchetta from Azienda Agricola Angela Consiglio made from Nocellara del Belice olives were also very good.

     

    On one of the last days of the trip it rained. It is not always sunny in Sicily and they can always use rain. We stopped at the Azienda Agricola Fontanaslsa for a lunch of Sicilian specialties and olive oil tasting.  Dr. Maria Catherina Burgalrella spoke about the process of making olive oil and the different type of olives she uses. She said that Cersuola olives have aromas of herbs, tomatoes, and lemons with low acidity. The Nocellara del Belice olives have a more fruity, spicy flavor. The choice of olive oil depends on what you are eating.

     

    Minuta olive from the Valle del Naso in the provinica di Messina is a rare and ancient Sicilian olive.  It grows on the highest hillsides of Monti Nebrodi.  The olives are all hand harvested from mid-October through mid-December. The oil has a very delicate flavor with a fruity aroma and a touch of bitterness and spice on the palate.

     

    A while ago, it was reported in the New York Times that the extra virgin olive oil from several factories contained sunflower and soybean oil.  This investigation has been going on for some time now and seems to be never-ending.  When I asked a producer in Sicily how you can tell if oil is purely extra virgin olive oil, his answer was: you have to watch the olives going in and the juice coming out to be sure.   When you buy extra virgin olive make sure it is from a reputable producer.

     

    Speaking of scandals, it seems that the buffalo mozzarella one is over.  It was the larger producers in the northern part of Campania that were having the problems.  Mozzarella from the artisanal producers (made by hand) was not involved.

     

    The latest Italian scandal concerns Brunello di Montalcino 2003.  The wine of some producers was confiscated by the government because Brunello must be made from 100% Sangiovese (Sangiovese Grosso) and the government said that these producers were putting Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot into there wine. Others were letting these foreign grapes grow in the vineyards alongside the Sangiovese.  Others were accused of producing more Brunello then the law allows.  The issue has not been resolved.

     

    Last week I went to a Chianti Classic tasting which was very informative and will report on it soon.

     

    Next week I am off to Alba in Piedmont for a tasting of Barolo and Barbaresco and will report on this trip.

     

     

     
  • Life & People

    The Island in the Sun


    Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Germans, French, Spanish, Italians, and Americans and have all left their mark on this beautiful but star-crossed island in the center of the
    Mediterranean. The island’s customs, dialect, economic and political institutions as well as the Sicilian character have all been shaped by these foreign invaders.

     



    Today’s Sicilian cuisine reflects these influences, for example, the Greeks introduced the cultivation of grape vines.  The Arabs may have had the greatest influence. 
    Sicily     was a paradise so different from the harsh land from which they came. It is no wonder the Arab writers lamented the loss of the
    Island for many years. They introduced the use of raisins and pine nuts, many of the savory dishes including couscous, popular in
    Trapani    , and the sweet and sour tastes typical of caponata. The frequent use of almonds dates from Arab times and they may have introduced gelato into
    Sicily    .

     



    From the French there is the tradition of the Monzu (Monsieur jn French, a word the Sicilians could not pronounce).  The monzu was a chef in a wealthy home trained in French haut cuisine techniques who used Sicilian ingredients. Many years ago at the Tasca di Almerita winery I had an elaborate meal prepared by one of the last of the monzus who has since passed away. 

     



    Michele and I were invited to Sicily by the Gruppo Ristoratori Italiani (GRI), a not-for- profit trade association composed of Italian restaurateurs in
    America    .

    It was founded in 1979 to increase the awareness of authentic Italian cuisine, promote the member restaurants and to give culinary scholarships.  The current Chairman is Tony May from San Domenico and the President is Gianfranco Sorrentino from Grattopardo both in
    New York    .

               

    What made the trip so interesting was that we were able to taste the best products from all over
    Sicily    . Producers were only too happy to show this group of restaurateurs and journalists the best
    Sicily     has to offer. We were all in for a treat!  Here are some or the things that we tasted that impressed me the most.

     

    Blood
    Oranges      (Provincia di Siracusca)

    Once in a hotel in
    Sicily     I witnessed an American couple arguing with the waiter over the juice they ordered for breakfast. They asked for orange juice and what they got resembled tomato juice.  Who could blame them, Sicilian blood oranges juice is as red as tomato juice. Blood oranges are produced in Eastern Sicily in the Provinces of Catania, Enna and
    Syracuse    . The different types are Tarocco, Moro and Sanguinello.  I can not tell them apart, they are all good. They have a very pleasant sweet taste, with a fresh delicate aroma unlike any other orange I have ever tasted and the juice is just as good.

     

    The Lemons of Siracusa

    Lemons have been cultivated along the Ionian coast in the Siracusa area since medieval times.  They were brought to Sicily from
    Asia during the Arabic domination.  The
    Normans     were connoisseurs of lemons but used them only for ornamental purposes.

    It was not until the 17th century that they began to be used as we know it today thanks in part to the Jesuits. The lemons are aromatic with a unique citrus flavor. The Sicilians use lemons on fish, vegetables and grilled meats. The citrons from this area are also exceptional and can be eaten fresh or candied.

     

    The Black Bread of Castelvetrano ( Provincia di Trapani)

    Sicilians make some of
    Italy    ’s finest bread but I was especially taken by the black bread made close to the Greek ruins at Selinunte.  It. is made from a blend of two different flours, locally grown durum and an ancient rare local variety called tumminia. The tumminia gives the bread its dark color, softness, and toasty flavor. The dough is shaped into a round called la vastedda, and is always baked in wood fired ovens.

    .

    Pistachios from Bronte (Provinica di Catania)

    This variety grows on the rough terrain of Bronte near
    Mount Etna. The trees

    bear fruit every other year. The Arabs brought pistachios to
    Sicily     and in local

    dialect they are called frastuca, a name of Arabic origin. You have to taste them to believe them!  I could not stop eating them. We had torrone, pesto, gelato, and several kinds of cookies, all made with Bronte pistachios.

     

    Almonds from the area around Noto (Provinica di Siracusca)

    There are three varieties of almonds cultivated around the town of
    Noto:

    Pizzauta dAvola, Fascionello  nd Romana. We were told that Romana has the best flavor but is a hard sell because of its chunky, irregular shape. Almonds are used in many Sicilian desserts. Almond paste is used in cassata, a cake made with ricotta and sponge cake that we were served all over
    Sicily. Almonds are also used in marzipan, a mixture of crushed almonds and sugar.  I think Sicilian almonds are best with a glass of
    Marsala    .

     

    Manna (Provinica di Palermo)

    Manna is made from a bluish, resinous substance extracted from the bark of ash trees that grow near Castelbuono and Pollina in the Madonie mountains.  When dried in the sun, it solidifies into manna, a natural sweetener with a very low glucose and fructose content. The extraction techniques are very ancient and are only done in this region. .We had it in one of our favorite restaurants, Nangalarruni in Castelbuono. One of their specialties was pork tenderloin encrusted with manna.  For dessert there were candies made from manna.  We liked these so much we took boxes of them home with us. 

     

    Sicilian
    Sea     Salt (Provincia di Trapani)

    This unrefined sea salt is produced by evaporating sea water in huge shallow pools near the shore between Trapani and
    Marsala    .. The salt is unrefined, unwashed and unaltered in any way. This process goes back in time to the ancient Greeks and Romans.

     

    Windmills turned by an Archimedes screw were added later in the Middle Ages to help move the water. The salt beds are managed completely by hand.  The salt is left to dry in the hot Sicilian sun in large pyramid shaped piles on the beach. These piles turn pink and some are covered with ceramic tiles to protect them from the possibility of rain. The crystals are bigger and dissolve quicker and taste saltier then regular salt though we were told that it is actually less salty because it contains less sodium chloride.  All I know is that it made the food taste better.

     

    Chocolate from the Antica Dolceria Bonajuto (City of
    Modica    )

    The Spanish introduced to
    Sicily     the chocolate making method they learned from the Aztecs of Mexico.  Bonajuto, the oldest chocolate maker in
    Sicily    , was founded in 1880 by Francesco Bonajuto and even today they make chocolate with the same way as the ancient Aztecs from the cocoa seed.  In the demonstration we witnessed, a mass of semi-ground cocoa that still contained cocoa butter and heated it.  When it turned to liquid it was mixed with sugar and spices, and kept at a temperature that prevents the sugar crystals from melting, this gives the chocolate its unique texture.  It has lightness, crunchiness and a great chocolate flavor that makes it different from any other chocolate I have tasted. We tasted the chocolate in both its liquid state (it was the essence of chocolate) and after it was formed into bars and bought many bars to take back with us.

     

    Cannoli (All over
    Sicily    )

    Cannoli probably originated in
    Palermo     during the Arab domination.  Cannolo means ”little tube” and consist of a fried pastry tube filled with sweetened ricotta flavored with sugar, chocolate chips, pistachios and candied fruits. In the Ninth Century the Arabs brought sugarcane to
    Sicily    .  Before this, honey or grape must was used to sweeten desserts. This made it possible to make better and sweeter deserts.   

    When we were in Taromina many years ago, we had cannoli so good that Michele asked what made it so special.  The clerk in the bakery replied that it was made with sheep sheep’s milk ricotta and the pastry had been deep fried in lard.  Sheep milk ricotta is richer and creamier than that made with cows’ milk and has a tangy taste which gives it a new dimension.

     

    Next time from Sicily:  wine, olive oil, hotels and restaurants

    Michele and I are hosting a tour to Sicily, Malta and
    Tunisia     aboard the 114 guest Corinthian II. From Sept. 24 – Oct 2, 2008

    For information: www.Traveldynamicsinternational.com

     

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